Exploring Southern Tuscany

Sommelier and Taste of Tuscany Host, Mark DeWolf

After almost ten tours to Italy, I’ve come to have a sense of the real Tuscany. Far away from the hustle and bustle of Florence, Siena and Pisa the small towns and rolling countryside of Southern Tuscany offers a taste of what I think is the true Tuscany. Life moves at a different pace here amongst the chamomile, vine and poppy decorated hills south of Siena. In the villages of Montalcino, Montepulciano and Pienza there is a sense, despite their fame, that little has changed. Elderly couples walk the same cobbled streets they have for decades while shop owners sell the same wares they have been for generations. Here are some quick tips for visiting Southern Tuscany’s famous little towns.

Montalcino – Tuscany’s most famous wine town is surprisingly sleepy given its illustrious name in the wine world. This is thanks in part to Banfi; a winery some twenty minutes outside the town towards the coast that sucks in North American tourists in search of the comfort of an Americanized wine experience. For those willing to travel the road less travelled take a drive towards Sant’Antimo. On this winding road you’ll find Biondi Santi; the first winery to produce Brunello di Montalcino. Don’t expect to just drop in, as Italian wineries unlike those in North America are rarely open to the public. Biondi Santi conducts tours by reservation. On our tour we were greeted by Franco Biondi Santi himself, who at the youthful age of 87 continues in his role as chief winemaker at the property – connections has its privileges. On the same road, is Frattoria Barbi which is more easily accessible than Biondi Santi and shares almost as long a history. A tour through its cellars is well worth taking. In the town itself, head to the fortress at the top of the hill. Here you can sample on a wide range of Brunello and few euro extra you can climb to the top of the fortress for some spectacular views of the Tuscan countryside far below. Montalcino has a number of dining options but the best is Boccon Divino where the view, wine list and cuisine are nothing less than spectacular. Be sure to ask host Marianna to recommend one of her husband Roberto’s wines. Roberto Cipresso is one of Montalcino’s most sought after winemakers.

 

Chianti Vineyard

Montepulciano

– This quintessential hilltop town is well worth a couple hour stroll but be sure to bring your good walking shoes as it is impossible to avoid steep climbs here. Wine shops abound in this town famous for Vino Nobile di Montepulciano; the more approachable and fragrant cousin of Brunello. While wine abounds here, the greatest treasure doesn’t come in liquid form. Bottega del Rame on Via dell’Opio nel Corso is home to Tuscany’s best kitchen wares. Cesare Mazzetti, the 72 year old owner of the shop uses 150 year old tools to craft one of a kind copper pots and other kitchen ware that Saveur magazine described as “As good as gold”. When in Tuscany, I don’t save room in my luggage for wine. I save it for Mr. Mazzetti’s copper pots – as a sommelier, that is a strong statement. If you have a car and are inclined to travel, head outside of town to Avignonesi winery on the outskirts of the Montepulciano appellation. Here within the vine covered walls is one of the regions oldest and most respected wineries. Be sure to arrange a tour of their Vin Santo cellar and if your pocket book allows, buy one for a celebratory meal as Avignonesi’s dessert wines are world renowned.

Pienza – take one whiff of Pienza and there is no question that this is Tuscany’s cheese capital. From fresh to aged, peppered and walnut and chestnut leaf wrapped versions, it is impossible to get away from cheese in this town. When it tastes as good as it does, why would you want to? Don’t plan on a long visit to Pienza as there is essentially a single street with all the shops and many of the restaurants. I recommend using Pienza as convenient mid-point of the day. Plan on arriving around 12:00, touring the town for an hour and then heading for a lunch at one of the many trattoria. Most shops in Southern Tuscany close between 1:00 and 3:00 so visiting the town and then having lunch at 1:00 will allow you to ensure you arrive at the next town when the shops have reopened. Be sure to head behind the church on the main street for some wonderful pictures of the Italian countryside.

Join Mark DeWolfe on the Taste of Tuscany, Italy Tour
October 2-10, 2009. 
*Only 2 rooms remaining.

Contact your Maritime Travel Counsellor today for more information.
For trip details please visit:  www.maritimetravel.ca/contentpage.asp?PageID=50