Why Iceland?

That’s the question everybody asks when I say where I went on my latest trip.

After spending some time in a land that was an amazing combination of European sophistication and other-worldly landscapes, all I can say in response is “Why didn’t I go sooner?” (And how soon can I go back?)

Let’s start with Reykjavik, the capital city. In many ways, it reminded me of Paris with its twisty-turny narrow downtown streets lined with interesting shops, cafes and restaurants. It even has its own “Eiffel Tower” thanks to the Hallgrimskirkja. This church’s tall, finger-like tower made a perfect landmark – it was easily seen no matter where we went, making it impossible to get lost whether we were exploring the downtown or roaming through the parks.

The funky shopping area in Reykjavik is the 101 district. Just follow Laugavagur Street and you’ll discover little shops that sell hand-knit Icelandic sweaters; unusual jewelry made out of silver and volcanic pearls; loads of book stores (Iceland has a 100% literacy rate); and the “world’s smallest watch manufacturer,” whose gorgeous pieces grace the wrists of rock musicians, movie stars and the Dali Llama.

When hunger hits, head for the waterfront. Fishing is still a major industry in Iceland and you’ll have your choice of seafood restaurants – all serving up the freshest catches with a view of the distant snowcapped mountains and the sea. For lunch one day we chose Icelandic Fish & Chips, which specializes in organic foods. This is not your typical fish and chip shop – you can have your fish fried, baked or poached, and the choices of chips took up a full side of the menu. And then there were the dips – all made with Iceland’s greatest secret: skyr! (Skyr is like a thick, yummy yogurt that has no fat. Eat as much of it as you can.) By the way, vegetarians aren’t left out in Reykjavik. There are several veggie-only places to eat.

Have you ever wondered what the midnight sun looks like? In late spring/summer Iceland really does enjoy 24-hours of daylight. Imagine 8:00pm on a summer’s night that just never ends; that’s what the light was like. The Icelandic people take full advantage of this and start hitting the bars and clubs at midnight to party until the morning.

Discovering the geographic and historic wonders just outside the city is easy thanks to Iceland’s highly organized bus tour system. We signed up for the Golden Circle tour at our hotel and were picked up the next morning by a very comfy coach. It’s hard to describe the lunar-landscape just outside the city. They don’t call this the land of ice and fire for nothing – we watched mile after mile of volcanic rock roll by as we headed out to adventure.

Our first stop was Gullfoss, The Golden Falls. These are Europe’s most powerful waterfalls, crashing down a three-step staircase before plunging into a crevice so deep, you can’t see where the water goes. Even if it’s sunny on the day you take this tour, bring a raincoat. You can get quite close to the falls and the mist will have you soaked.

After that it was on to the geyser fields. I cannot imagine what it was like for the Vikings who first saw this phenomenon. Ghostly mist floats just above the ground, while puddles of boiling water bubble and burp away. Then one of them explodes, sending a rocket of water high into the air. No wonder the Vikings had so many gods.

Our last stop was Thingvellir National Park, site of Iceland’s first parliament in 930AD as well as the mid-Atlantic rift. This is the place where the European and Atlantic tectonic plates meet and are slowly pulling apart at the rate of two centimeters a year. You don’t have to be a geologist to see that the land is literally splitting apart, but, as our guide explained, that doesn’t mean that Iceland is going to become two islands. Each tug of the plates results in a volcanic reaction, filling in the void with lava that soon turns to rock. So Iceland is actually growing bigger with each shift.

Of course, Iceland is most famous for the Blue Lagoon – and now I must tell you a deep dark secret: we didn’t go. Instead, we opted to hang out with the locals at Laugardalslaug, one of Reykjavik’s many outdoor geothermal pools. It wasn’t as fancy as the Blue Lagoon, but it did give us a full morning to meet some more friendly folks and get into the groove of Icelandic living. The waters are plenty warm and the locals told us they jump in several times a week, year round, even in winter. They feel that’s one of the reasons they live so long – and they have one of the longest life spans in the world to show for it. Funny observation: you have to shower up completely before getting in the pool because they don’t bleach the water – but every Icelandic woman kept her lipstick on!

I’m already thinking of going back to see the southern parts of Iceland with its mighty glaciers. And since Iceland is just a 4-hour direct flight away from Halifax, you know it won’t be long before I head that way again. A big TAKK to Icelandair, the Hilton Nordica, Reykyavik Excursions and Maritime Travel for making this trip so easy, affordable and memorable!

Margaret MacQuarrie
Very happy Maritime Travel customer

Iceland tips:
• You can fly direct from Halifax to Iceland with Iceland Air. Call your Maritime Travel agent for details.

• If you learn only one word in Icelandic, make it “snyrting.” That means bathroom. But don’t worry if you don’t remember – every person we met spoke excellent English. All signs and menus are bi- or multi-lingual, too.

• Iceland moves at a slower pace. Stores close up between 5 – 6 p.m. on Saturday and most don’t open on Sunday. Use Sunday as a touring day, not a shopping day.

• The local currency is the kroner. You can’t buy kroner in Canada before you leave, nor can you exchange it once you get back. There are plenty of ATMs and a bank at the airport so just withdraw some cash when you get there and exchange it before you come back. Credit cards are readily accepted for everything, so you really don’t need to carry much money. Also, Icelandic people do not expect tips.

• Shopping tip: tourists get their tax back– so save your receipts!